
From the History of Climbing
An Extract from the Climbing Guide - the Adrspach Rocks, Part One by Stanislav Lukavsky
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The first climbers to have made ascents in this area in 1912 were members of the Saxon climbing club named after K. V. Lössnitz. They arrived in Adrspach at Whitsuntide 1923 and spent a few days here. On May 20, a group of nine climbers climbed the King spire (Pfingsturm). The next day they tackled the Battlements and in the days after they made the Saxon Head, the Martin's Crown and the Eagle. Smitten by the beauty of the Adrspach Rocks and the great number of its proud and unconquered spires they appeared here again in less than a week. A group of three climbers (Otto Rülke, Otto Dietrich and Wilhelm Fiehl) ascend the Lovers and the next day the Mayoress for the first time. Until the beginning of the Second World War, most climbs had been made by Saxon and Sudeten climbers. The only exception was an expedition organized by members of the Czech Alpinist Club in 1935 who climbed the Lovers, the Stephen's Crown, and also the Jug for the first time.
Before the war, also local climbers from Teplice nad Metuji and Dolni Adrspach started to climb in this area. In 1941, the "Kletter Klub Einheimischen" based in Adrspach had had 15 members. The most active of them was Herbert Fichtner. Provided with a special permit, members of the Nachod Climbing Club arrived in Adrspach for the first time on May 20, 1944. They had already made a series of original ascents at the Ostas area, the only rock area that had not been occupied by Germany. At that time, Vladimir Krsiak, Jiri Kleiner and Otmar Benes climbed the Grandmother's Armchair close to the rock area entrance. Jan Farka "Jeny" při výstupu v Království 70-tá léta As the Grandmother's Armchair route does not rank among the most difficult ones, Vladimir Krsiak and Otmar Benes appeared in Adrspach again on September 17, 1944. This time, they ascended the highest and most famous rock formation - the Lovers.
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Shortly after the war, the permission duty was cancelled and the rocks became part of Czechoslovakia again. Other ascent that is worth mentioning is the original ascent of the Eliska's Spire made in 1947 by Vladimir Skaroupka, Miloslav Jirka and Miroslav Tomek. Also, ascending the valley crack at the same spire by Frantisek Schejbal and Frantisek Frank in 1950 as well as the original ascent of the Castle made by Frantisek Schejbal and Stanislav Cepelka in 1948 are noteworthy. In 1960, Saxon climbers came to the Adrspach Rocks again. Herbert Richter started a series of his original ascents and discovers a series of new routes, e.g. the Parrot's Crack at the Parrot or the Solstice at the Mayor. Werner Rump along with Vaclav Bruckner and Jiri Nejezchleba tackled the Tyroleans using the West Crack. New generation of climbers of the fifties and sixties together with a group of young local climbers threw themselves into climbing very demanding cracks and marking up new routes. One of them was Karel Hauschke (nicknamed "Koksa") who became famous by his original ascents at difficult never-climbed walls in Adrspach. The Valley Route at the Duke (marked out and climbed along with Jan Zalesky) crossed the huge Valley Wall and the Dwo-day Route was the first of many cracks leading to the top of Pegasus. A year later, Koksa made the famous Aerial Route on Mistress. Two weeks later, he and Vaclav Hornych climbed the Long Corner opposite the Lovers. In the following years, Karel Hauschke and Jaroslav Krecbach ranked about the best climbers. Routes such as Dechac on King, the Mushroomers' Route on Tooth and the Magic Route on the Koksa Spire rank among the most famous. The last one was climbed and marked out together with Vladimir Meier a co-author of the impressive Vault Route on Castle. Horolezecký sraz The Adrspach Rocks has always been deemed to be a crack climbers' domain. One of the best crack climbers was Ladislav Solc who made the White Rose Route on Carpets along with Berthold Rosenberger in summer 19 68. His self-confidence in cracks was shown by his unsecured original climbs: The Valley Route on The Jean Frank Spire or the Rangers Route on Student.
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The sixties and seventies were the golden age of rock climbing in the area. While the first of the climbers' rallies held in 1966 was attended by some 200 climbers, the rallies organized ten years later were attended by approximately 2000 climbers from all parts of the country. The most distinctive personalities of the sixties and seventies were Vaclav Bruckner and Milan Rusy. The former has already been making original ascents in the Adrspach Rocks for forty years, the latter has climbed and marked out not only the famous Ilja's Heritage Route on Mayoress but also a considerable number of other original routes. And other names? Jan Farkas (Jeny) - an excellent crack climber supported by his no less excellent brothers, Leopold Palenicek with Frantisek Pulpan and Jaroslav Poul (Piki) with Petr Blahna (Pete) - these two permanent pairs of climbers have made a series of excellent original ascents in Ardspach and so has Ilja Spitalsky, Vaclav Hornych with Miroslav Vacek and Petr Holy (especially the Valley Edge at Stephes Crown). An exceptional climber is also Jaroslav Houser (Piskor). A special group was formed by Vladislav Arnost, Antonin Umlauf and Ales Havlicek, all the three nicknamed "the athlets". A similar "gang" called "Gerdovci" consisted of Jaromir Gereg, Vaclav cerny, Frantisek Ostradicky (Angrest) and Stanislav Safar. Also Ivan Kobr and Karel Zivny have been fixed stars for years. Last but not least we should mention Antonin Rousek, Milos Nosek, Milos Rain (Klokan), Milos Prazak and Jiri Rymes (Lalubi) and especially Stanislav Lukavsky (Cikan) and Petr Mocek (with almost a hundred original ascents a year) who have made their marks as exceptional and excellent climbers.
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